Thursday, September 4, 2008

State Count

East Bound: California, Nevada, Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Ontario (Canada), New York, Connecticut, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Virginia, District of Columbia.

West Bound: Virginia, Maryland, West Virginia, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Minnesota, South Dakota, Wyoming, Utah, Nevada, Arizona, California

From Arkansas in May: Arkansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California (this doesn't count as part of this trip, but we did it in May, so we can say that within the last six months, we have traveled, with the trailer, through over half the US).

Just over 10, 000 miles. Three oil changes, one seriously cracked windshield, a little damage to the trailer ladder due to an encounter with a stubborn tree, and one very dirty white pickup truck. Not bad, considering.

We had a wonderful time, but if we were planning this trip knowing what we know now, we wouldn't have done so much driving. I may have mentioned earlier in the blog that we originally planned to take 3 months. But with the price of everything, and a couple of things we wanted to do in September here in California, we cut a month off our trip and accomplished the same itinerary.

We talked to a guy in the Tetons who said he always stays at least two weeks at each destination, and another who said he never drives more than 200 miles in one day. That sounds better, doesn't it? On the plus side, we were able to see some family and a lot of old friends, re-visit some favorite places, and see some things we have always wanted to see.

You may wonder how anyone can drive 300-400 miles day after day, especially because there isn't a lot of good radio in large sections of the country. And let's face it, even though we have been married for over 40 years, that's a lot of togetherness. The one and only way we could do it is through the magic of books on CD. We put a light mystery or novel in the player and listen to it talk. It's very entertaining and the miles go by. I pack a lunch and make a thermos of coffee, but we stop about every 1 1/2 to 2 hours to give all of us a break, walk Doogie, and change drivers. We love a road trip! The United States of America is truly a beautiful country. It's worth seeing.

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Home at Last

We didn't think about home much during our 8 weeks away, and it wasn't until three or four days ago that we began to think that we really wanted to get here. But in the past 2 days, we really wanted to get here!



I-15 is a great and easy road until you get to Vegas. After than it's terrible. And today, as usual, it was close truck traffic all the way. Fortunately we left early enough to avoid the worst part of the day and rolled in around 3 PM.



It's good to be home.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Las Vegas, Nevada

We drove from Provo where the temperature was 50 this morning to Las Vegas where the temperature was a chilly 102 at 5:00 PM when we arrived. The locals are thrilled that it has cooled off. We made camp in the KOA at Circus-Circus, which is really the parking lot, microwaved some frozen General Tsu Chicken and spent a couple of hours in the casino. Vegas is very dead tonight, probably due to being the first week in September.

It's been a great trip, but we're ready to go home. Home is 275 miles from here, so we will easily pull in the driveway by early afternoon. We've gained another hour, so should be up and at 'em early and get a good start. The earlier the better to avoid the heat.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Coulter Bay Campground to Salt Lake City

We had the most beautiful drive through the mountains to Salt Lake area today. We took US 89 all the way from Jackson, Wyoming to Brigham, Utah where we hopped on 15 and drove another hour to Provo, and are now camped for the night.

This morning we woke to a cold, damp rain with fog obscuring the mountains. My outdoor thermometer had gotten wet and the batteries aren't working, so I don't know what the outside temperature was, but our heater, set at 55, kicked on about 5:00 AM. By the time we were prepared to leave, I was cold to the bone. My feet were wet and they never warmed up until I got into a hot shower this evening! After some consideration, we opted to head more or less due south on 89 into Utah, rather than drive 60 miles northwest to Idaho Falls and pick up 15 there. A great decision, as the trip through the mountains along the Snake and Star Rivers was well worth the extra time it took.

There was heavy fog in the Tetons and we could see snow on the mountain tops that peeked through the clouds. The hills around Jackson were dusted with snow. As we wound through the Snake, then Star (where it was 39 degrees at noon, and NPR kept predicting 70), then Bear valleys, up and down the mountains, the snow accumulation increased, though the roads were fine. There was snow until out final descent into Brigham City and there is snow on the tips of the Wasatch Range.

Despite the snow, the trip was easy, pretty, and cozy. The mountains were beautiful and there was a terrific program on NPR about the history of folk music in the US in the 40's through the early 60's. We listened to the Weavers, Pete Seeger, and Arlo Guthrie songs and interesting commentary. Did you know that the Weaver's recording of O-we-ma-way (I'm sure that's not the spelling, but you know the song??? The Lion sleeps tonight???) was an African folk song about a people who had been defeated but would ultimately prevail? The Weavers used it as a metaphor for the HUAC hearings and how hey destroyed the Weavers. There was a recording of Pete Seeger's testimony. There was also an old clip of Arlo Guthrie explaining that Pete believed that people who can sing together listen to each other. If they can sing together they can learn to do other things together. How simple if it were true. Anyway, the program is available for download at www.NPR.org or www.PeteSeeger.org.

By the time we got settled in our campsite, it was after six. We grilled some pork chops (A-1 sauce makes a terrific barbecued pork chop), microwaved some TJ pilaf, tossed a simple salad and had dinner. Then a hot shower and it's suddenly 10:00 PM! Off to Vegas tomorrow. I'm sure there isn't any snow there!

And by the way...I called Doug. They didn't climb this weekend due to the weather. They've postponed a week.

Grand Tetons in the Rain

Grand Tetons in the Rain. From Sunday night, August 31, 2008

It’s raining, foggy, and cold here this evening. When we left for Jackson, we could see a storm coming over the mountains, and I thoughts for a minute that we should go back and put the deck chairs away. Laziness prevailed, however, and we didn’t turn back. Too bad. The storm hit, at first very heavy rain and hail, then settled in to a mild but steady, cold downpour.

While we were at Jackson Lodge having dinner, blogging, and checking email, the power flickered a couple of times and I wondered if the campground would be affected if the power went out 10 miles south. Well...yes...it was. We returned to the campground to find no power and an inside-the-trailer temperature of 45 degrees. For all you campers out there, the beauty part of having a travel trailer is also having a generator. Within 15 minutes Steve had it cranked up and the heat was on! We turned the fridge on to gas, shut down the water heater, and turned all lights off except one, and are sitting here computing and reading in complete comfort. When it ran out of gas, Steve braved the rain and filled it again. By the time we were sick of marveling about the generator the power was back on.

Ann and Carol, how many freezing nights at Bantam did we have in the rain, playing hearts in a leaky dining canopy?

And I sure hope my friend Doug and his party are OK up there on the mountain.

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Grand Teton National Park

We arrived in Grand Teton about noon on Friday, after a hairy 20 mph trip over Blackrock Pass (elevation 9,600 feet) which is under construction for 20 miles and down to one lane.

Weather has been perfect, but now a storm threatens. This place may not be the most beautiful in the world, but it’s in the top 5.

Saturday we had lunch with our old friends Pat and Doug Vlchek. Doug and I worked together on a lot of volunteer projects over the years. He and Pat have now retired to Kelly, Wyoming, on the eastern edge of this park. It was great to see them. Doug and his two sons are climbing Mountain today and tomorrow. Unfortunately, as I write this, we are sitting in Jackson Lodge looking at where Teton Mountain should be and all we see is rain and fog. I hope those guys are ok.

Grand Teton is just south of Yellowstone. We came through here three years ago and loved it. The views are just spectacular. The Teton range seems to rise out of the lakes. There are patches of glacier, clear blue skies, and incredible cloud formations. Right off the bat we saw a grizzly bear...quite exciting! We've also seen a lot of deer and Steve thought he saw elk in the elk reserve this afternoon.

Today we went to Jackson, the upscale resort community just south of here. We remembered it as being a place of beautiful galleries and looked forward to wandering through them again. A heavy downpour, complete with pouring hail put a bit of a crimp in that plan, but we did poke into a few shops and looked at some of the western art. Doogie had a blast because everyone stopped to pet him. One thing I didn't remember from our previous trip...Jackson is full of national retailers like Patagonia (ok, that's appropriate in Jackson, I guess), Coldwater Creek, and Chicos??? Why would you go shopping in Jackson, WY to buy Coldwater Creek? I don't get that at all.

We have no phone connection and only limited internet. I am receiving emails while we are in this lounge, but I can't send any. Had a phone internet connection on Friday night, but haven't been able to access it since.

Tomorrow we leave for home. Plan Salt Lake tomorrow, then St. George or Vegas depending on how tired we get, and home by Thursday.

Saturday, August 30, 2008

Nu-Kew-luur

What is it with politicians and the word nuclear? Why do they think that speaking like a bumbling idiot endears them to the common person? Don’t most people think, “Oh my God! They are even dumber and less articulate than I am, and they're in charge (or might be someday). We’re totally and completely screwed.”

Friday, August 29, 2008

To the Mountains

Woke to 49 degrees today, and that was inside the trailer.

The sky is deep blue and the sun is shining. We're off to Grand Teton National Park. I don't expect to have internet until after we leave there.

Can't wait to see who McCain's running mate will be!

Thursday, August 28, 2008

One More Thing 9:00 Mountain Time

Barack's speech showed me, once again, that he is the smartest, most dignified, most articulate, most direct and engaged, and most presidential candidate in a long time. And he has the best command of the issues that matter to me of any politician I have ever seen. And Joe Biden is growing on me. That's partly due to the difficult psychological effort I am making where Joe is concerned, but it's working.

Even Fox "News" couldn't fault his speech, although by morning I'm sure they'll find a way.

Heard on Talk Radio

Yesterday we were between talking books. Never a good thing, as I just hate talking on the radio and Steve finds the call-in shows entertaining. They make my hair hurt really, really bad, and I usually insist upon quiet over talk-radio, but sometimes I have no choice, and sometimes the level of ignorance reaches hilarious heights. For example, a caller was talking about a web site where he found a list of public officials who had obtained their diplomas and degrees from phony universities. He rambled on and on for what seemed like hours, with the host encouraging his barely lucid obsessing. I was starting to get pissed off and reach for the tuner, but then he said "Did you know that you can get a doctoriat [sic] degree from the internet for $1400". Great! Made listening worthwhile. I'm going to apply for one the minute we get back.

Prairie Dogs

I forgot to mention that we finally saw some Prairie Dogs today. The pictures didn't come out because the little critters blend right into the landscape and move really, really fast. I had wanted to see them, but we never made it to the two towns of them in Custer State Park. They were just along highway 26.

Heavy Truck Traffic

Does this mean heavy trucks or heavy traffic?

Du Bois, Wyoming

Tonight we're about fifty miles form Grant Teton National Park, enjoying a beautiful river front campsite and also enjoying the last TV and internet we're likely to have for a while. Phone and intenet has been a challenge in this sparsely populated area.

In a rest stop this morning, a man who was playing with Doogie insisted that we needed to go to Thermopolis, a detour of 65 miles. He raved about the mineral baths there and was determined that we should go because we would enjoy it. Turns out he's a federal employee, working for the Bureau of Reclamation, and probably a geologist, at least from the way he was able to explain how you get and store water in those circular stone towers that are all over central Wyoming, when you capture natural gas. It also turns out that he was right. Thermopolis is a not-to-be-missed spot. It's located up Wind River Canyon, in Boysen State Park, past a reservoir, up and down colorful mountains, along a beautiful river and through one of the most beautiful canyons I have ever seen.

We veered off route 26 to the north toward a vividly colored mountain range. The first hills we encountered looked as if a giant dump truck had separated all the colors into piles. White calcium, red iron, and white sandstone, gray granite, all neatly separated. The landscape quickly changed to a high, narrow river canyon, striped with copper, white, brown and pink. We passed signs describing the rock: "Phosphoria FM - 225 million years", "Gallatin Cambria 500 million years", "Pre-Cambrian Granite - 600 million years". We also passed pristine river-front campsites along the sparkling blue Wind River.

Thermopolis has numerous mineral spas. Neither Steve nor I has ever had a mineral bath, and wanted to try a soak, but didn't know what to expect. The state of Wyoming has a facility where you can use the pools for free and rent suits and towels. You can stay 20 minutes in the 104 degree water, then you have to leave for 2 hours. As the day was hot and the sun merciless, 20 minutes was enough time for us. I hardly ever put on a bathing suit, and when I do pictures are never allowed, but this was such a unique experience that I wanted to document it. It felt great, but did you know that the primary mineral in a mineral bath is sulphur? Sulphur smells like eggs gone over. We should have rented suits and towels, because our towels now smell a little "over". But it was fun and well worth the detour.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Casper, Wyoming

After battling the worst westerly winds we've seen this trip, and as we were traveling mostly south or north, they rocked us all over the place, we checked into a campground on a hillside in Casper with no trees to buffet the gusts. The wind blew me into the office where the man commented on the breeze. Startled at the word "breeze", I laughed. "When it starts blowing, you'll know it," he said slowly, in quiet deadpan.

My most important qualification for a campground tonight is that it have cable TV. Last night we didn't have any reception and had to watch the convention on live internet feed, which, probably due to the size of the transmission, kept clicking off.

We arrived about 3:00, hit the ground running, and by 6:30 we had 3 loads of laundry clean and put away, a large grocery shopping done and put away, and a simple dinner on the table. Our over-riding goal was to watch the speeches tonight. We finished all that just in time to hear all of Bill Clinton's speech, and are ready as Biden is about to begin.

Tomorrow we head to the Tetons a day early, having decided not to stay here two nights. We love the Tetons, and an extra day there will be wonderful. And we're leaving early so that we can scope out which bar in which lodge will be showing the Obama speech. Our fallback position is to go to a Starbucks in Jackson to watch it on the computer. Let me know what you think of the speeches!

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Democratic Convention

We don't have TV reception here! And it's hard to find a newspaper with good national and global coverage. So we can't see the convention and only read about it on the internet. Tomorrow we move on to Casper for a couple of nights, and will hopefully find a campsite with cable. I really want to see Barack's speech on Thursday.

I saw a clip of Ted Kennedy on the CNN website this morning and am sorry we missed the live presentation. Just so you know, I'm disappointed in the VP choice, and so am doing a lot of talking to myself (not always smart to listen to myself, however). I won't explain why I'm disappointed; I think I'll wait and see if the rest of the week can change my mind.

Custer State Park, Wildlife Loop, Custer, SD

After debating whether to leave for the Tetons today, we decided to stay one more night and drive the wildlife loop in the large state park just south of Custer.

So we picked up Doogie, who now smells very nice and looks very pretty. He had a shampoo, manicure, eyebrows, and comb-out. Those of you in California will appreciate that it cost $41.60 for one night's boarding and all those beauty treatments. He was extremely glad to see us, and even jumped into the truck, something he rarely does, not because he can't jump (this little boy can jump like a kangaroo) but perhaps because he perceives that the back seat opening is too narrow. Anyway, we were glad to see each other.

I'm really glad we did Custer State Park because it is almost empty of people and very beautiful. It has several lodges, lakes all over the place, a couple of restaurants, and many campsites, some with hookups. I'm sorry we didn't stay there, but their website really doesn't describe how nice a facility it is, so we didn't know. We saw lots of animals, enjoyed the view, and had a relaxing picnic lunch. Today is very hot, dry, and windy so viewing the memorials wouldn't be much fun. We lucked out on our timing of the weather and itinerary, but came home to the campsite early because of the heat.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Crazy Horse Memorial and Mt. Rushmore

Another wonderful day! First of all, the weather was perfect. The ferocious wind finally died down and it was 85 and sunny with a cool breeze. We dropped Doogie off at a local kennel for boarding (no dogs allowed at the memorial) and a bath and headed out to Crazy Horse.

The sculpture is a work in progress, started over 30 years ago and funded entirely by donations. It looks like it will take another 30 years, because only 11 people, mostly family, are currently working on the mountain. But the property has an amazing museum, working Lakota craftspeople, a replica of Korczak Ziolkowski's home, a restaurant, a tour, and a movie. We stayed until we were entirely saturated. Interestingly, the foundation that supports this project has been offered federal money, but has turned it down. In addition, the effort continues to be heavily controlled by the Ziolkowski family and the Lakota leaders. Korczak's widow, Ruth, who is 82, is still chairwoman of the board. I'm guessing tat there are some interesting political goings-on and would love to know what happens behind the scene!

After lunch we headed up route 16 again, driving carefully so as not to encounter Officer Barrick again, and went to Rushmore. Again, the beautiful weather just heightened the beauty of the mountains and the park. The National Park Service has done its usual fabulous job of creating this place. We stayed all afternoon, had dinner at the restaurant, and stayed into the evening for the lighting. Every evening at the end of the Ranger Program they invite every veteran in the audience to come down to the stage to touch the flag that flies in the amphitheatre and speak their names into the microphone. Very moving.

A factoid worth considering. The word Sioux, meaning snake, was given to the native people who live here by French traders. It is increasingly considered derogatory. They prefer to be called by their tribal name - Ogala, Lakota, Dakota or whatever.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Black Hills of South Dakota

Arrived around noon today, after checking in and out of another campground which was extremely crummy despite a great write-up in the AAA book. So, we're in another KOA.

Went to the Gustav Borglund Museum today and learned about the sculptor who designed and built Mt. Rushmore. He also designed the swimming medals for the Olympics and was the original designer of Stone Mountain, though another sculptor finished the Georgia carvings. We had heard that it was a good introduction to the presidents, and found it very a valuable prelude to Mt. Rushmore tomorrow.

Had some excitement on the way. Let me start the story by stressing that I'm always the navigator. I have a fabulous sense of direction, and I plan and study maps, so we hardly ever get lost. Steve just lets me do it. I try to get him to pay attention, to the planning, but he doesn't. I just tell him which way to go.

So, on the way to the Borglund, when we spotted a coffee shop across the street, Steve made a couple of his famous U-turns, one of which was across what they call a four and highway here (it really isn't). We are in Custer, SD, population 1,100. Custer is like Mayberry, so an old dude in a dirty white pickup truck doing two consecutive U-turns was probably pretty exciting for Officer Barrick. Steve got a written warning and, even better, got to sit in the cruiser for a lecture...but no ticket. The really funny part about it is that the officer asked him where we were going, and he didn't know. When he remembered that it was some museum, he couldn't remember exactly which one. And I had picked a roundabout scenic route through the mountains, rather than the boring highway we had just driven, but Steve didn't know that, so the cop didn't believe him because he thought we were going in the wrong direction. I thought it was hilarious. I wish he had asked officer Barrick if we could take a picture for our blog.

So the museum was great, the cop thing was entertaining, and the drive home down SD 16A was just spectacular. This amazing road was designed by Peter Norbeck, a SD governor and US Senator. It's extremely narros, and along the narrow, winding road are wooden bridges that form a switchback - you go under the bridge, then make a 180 degree turn up a steep hill over it. It's hard to describe, but is some kind of engineering genius. There are also 3 low, square, narrow stone tunnels, one of which has a distant view of the presidents through a clearing in the trees at the end of the tunnel. There are several places to stop and view the hills and valleys. We saw some families of mother and baby turkeys, a mountain goat, and some deer. No bison, though.

All in all, a great day.

Low Flying Aircraft

Another idiotic sign, but I didn't have the camera handy. What are you supposed to do about low flying aircraft near highways? Duck? You've seen the signs, haven't you? Now that I'm looking for stupid signs, I see a lot of them.

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Green Polo Shirt

I just looked back at the pictures, and to my horror, I am wearing the same lime-colored polo and tan pants in almost every picture I appear in. Everyone we know is aware that fashion is not a priority with the Kammerer household, and my life-long goal of wearing casual clothes is finally a realization in retirement, but yes, I do have other tops with me. Tomorrow I will wear a different shirt and make sure to get a picture for you.